Salut Bordeaux!
Incredibly, it can cost less than the train fare from Tunbridge Wells to London to catch a plane to Bordeaux and less time than it would take to drive to the Lake District. And what a wonderful weekend, short break or holiday destination it is. This sophisticated historic city has architecturally stunning boulevards to rival Paris, more sunshine than the more northerly capital of France and friendlier locals.
A Taste of France
Surrounded by vineyards where some of the finest wines in the world are produced, Bordeaux celebrates its viticultural roots every year with an exuberant wine festival along the quays of the River Garonne. The scale of the event is impressive, with regional wine growers showcasing their finest, live music on three stages and an illuminated drone show for those still standing at the end of the evening. For 22 euros, a tasting pass enables you to sample the best of Bordeaux wines and hiccup your way through a wine school workshop. Stalls selling gourmet street food like oysters, charcuterie, duck, cheese, crepes and local ice cream are a gastronomic cut above the usual and add to the gustatory joyfulness of the occasion.
Majestic tall ships moor up to provide a historic backdrop overlooked by the magnificent 18th century Place de la Bourse. A shimmering water mirror doubles the grandeur of the historic facades and reflects the prosperous past of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you can manage the ubiquitous ten thousand steps a day, the entire city is walkable. There are bikes and scooters to hire in the squares and an excellent tram network that’s as cheap as frites.
Thriving City
Once a busy port and trading hub, Bordeaux was given a facelift by its former Mayor and President of France Alain Juppe. His visionary initiatives included cleaning the soot blackened facades of historic buildings, revealing honeyed stone which glows in the sunlight of south-western France, and reclaiming the streets from traffic congestion. City planners everywhere could learn much from the innovative approach and bold investment which transformed Bordeaux during his 20 year reign. Its thriving economy has been boosted by an exodus of remote workers from the north seeking the good life and the growth of tech and aerospace industries in its commercial outskirts.
Homage to Wine
There is yet more regeneration in industrial areas along the Garonne with some astonishing contemporary architecture juxtaposing the historic city centre. Most striking of these is La Cite du Vin. Shaped like a swirl of fine red in a connoisseur’s glass, this glittering concrete, steel and glass temple to the worship of wine uses innovative interactive technology to educate, inform and entertain.
An immersive ‘Via Sensoria’ provides an evocative journey through the wine growing seasons and sommeliers await visitors on the eighth floor for an expert guided wine tasting experience. Fine dining and panoramic views over the river and city are available at the Le 7, a gourmet restaurant curling around the upper swirl of the building. If your appetite for fine wine has been whetted, then the Latitude 20 cellar stocks more than 800 wines stacked like liquid library books in a barrel shaped tower. The most expensive on display is a steal at 3,500 euros.
Weird and Wonderful
If immersive experiences are your thing, the largest digital art studio in the world is a mind-blowing sensory treat. A great concrete monolith where occupying German forces hid U-boats before sending them on their deadly missions to destroy the allied naval fleet has been repurposed in a remarkable way. Bassins de Lumiere transforms this dark, dank watery bunker into a homage to surrealist artists Dali and Gaudi. The haunting sound track of Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon and moving art on every surrounding surface gives the weird impression of being inside the heads of these weirdly creative geniuses. No shrooms necessary.
Food and Shopping
Back in reality, Bordeaux is a gastronomic hub packed with restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels to suit all pockets and tastes. There are independent hostelries on every street, like family run Ganache where a chocolate factory and a chic restaurant sit side by side on a busy thoroughfare between the quays and the shopping district: https://www.ganache-bordeaux.fr/restaurant/. The city is buzzing at night and it’s worth doing some research and booking in advance as the choice of places to dine is overwhelming and the good restaurants get booked up, even off season.
For those who enjoy shopping, there are high-end designer shops as well as more affordable options. Markets include the Marché des Capucins, a traditional French market offering a colourful and delicious range of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and other local specialities. As well as big international hotels, there is boutique accommodation if you want more of a feel of the local community and culture. Hotel La Maison du Lierre: https://www.hotel-maisondulierre-bordeaux.com/ is an example of a place offering home comforts in the heart of this cosmopolitan city. Breakfast is served in a courtyard garden. Outside, the street is quiet and yet the busy Place des Quinconces, once used for public executions and now where roads intersect in every direction around the city, is just at the end of the road.
Art and History
Other notable historical sites include the Porte Cailhau, a 15th-century gate that was once part of the city's defensive walls. Nearby, the 13th century Saint-André Cathedral features stunning stained glass windows and intricate carvings. The city dates back to Roman times and the Musée d'Aquitaine covers the history of the region from prehistoric times to the present day. The Musée des Beaux-Arts is one of the largest art museums in France. It features an impressive collection of paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts from the 15th to the 20th century. These are just a few examples of cultural destinations which would take more than a weekend to visit.
Touring Base
If you’re using the city as a touring base, the Bordeaux Wine Route is a 60 mile scenic drive through some of the most beautiful vineyards in the region. Within an hour’s drive, there are coast, mountains and idyllic rural villages to explore.
Visitor services and information are excellent, both online: https://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/ and in the Tourist Information centre in the city. Get a City Pass and book a tour on your first day if you want to make the most of your visit: https://www.visiter-bordeaux.com/en/discovering-bordeaux/guided-tours This is a great way to find the best of what this welcoming city has to offer.
So many Brits flock to the idyllic wine-growing countryside of rural south-west France without casting a backward glance at the city of Bordeaux. And yet, this city is packed with museums, galleries, cobbled streets, historic buildings, and open green spaces. The airport is a short tram ride into the city and nowhere is far from the tram and bus network. If arriving by rail, there’s a high speed link with Paris. If you’re driving from the UK or hiring a car, you won’t need it in the city but it’s a brilliant base for exploring coastal resorts like Arachon, vineyards and wine tasting tours or strolling around delightful historic market towns like Villereal and St Emilion.
Bordeaux is also distinguished as being a flat stretch right at the start of this year’s Tour de France. If cycling is your thing and you don’t want to scale the mountains elsewhere on the route, you can pedal at leisure in the wake of the race titans and enjoy the scenery and sunshine while getting fit.
Karen Martin
March 2024 Picture credits Bordeaux Tourist Board/Shutterstock
More information:
https://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/
https://www.visiter-bordeaux.com/en/discovering-bordeaux/guided-tours
https://www.hotel-maisondulierre-bordeaux.com/
https://www.ganache-bordeaux.fr/restaurant/
https://www.bassins-lumieres.com/en
https://www.laciteduvin.com/en