BURGH ISLAND, SOUTH DEVON
Not quite a tropical sandy island however Burgh Island off the Devon coast will certainly bring a glow to your cheeks at any time of the year. It's almost like travelling abroad as to access the island does requires a unique journey through and over the surf. Arriving via the ‘Sea Tractor’ service is without doubt one of those experiences that are incredibly memorable.
The uniqueness of the resort island does not end there. The hotel itself is an Art Deco masterpiece that has attracted guests since the 1930’s. It has a guest list with some clout too. This was the island where crime author Agatha Christie wrote ‘Evil Under The Sun’ and guests have included Noel Coward, Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson, The Beatles, Malcolm Campbell, Aviator, Amy Johnson, Lord Mountbatten of Burma, Gertrude Lawrence and R J Mitchell, designer of the Spitfire. Possibly Winston Churchill too. It has acted as a location for a whole number of films and TV productions. With the latest being BBC’s ‘Towards Zero’ and again an Agatha Christie story being partly shot there last year.
If you are an appreciator of the Art Deco period and its style then this is the perfect place to indulge that love. Plus, as you step back into the architecture of that period you are also about to taste the service that those key guests would have experienced back in the 1930’s too. Luxury high teas, cocktails, champagne and dressing for a black tie dinner are expected. A trio playing in the Grand Ballroom reflects the music of that period. Dining with waiters flitting from table to table attending to your needs and keeping you fed and watered in a stylish but relaxed atmosphere. With only 25 rooms the hotel never feels busy.
Calm and heavenly as you settle into life on the island itself. Exploring the island where bunnies, badgers and hedgehogs share the landscape of craggy cliffs and coves. Views from the top of the island give sweeping views of the rugged grey and red cliffs of the Devon coast. To the East it’s to Bolt Tail and Hope Cove. Then to the West, just catching glimpses of Rame Head 15 miles away which is just past Plymouth and is visible on clear days.
Low tide is when the quarter of mile wide and fine sandy beach that connects the island to the mainland is fully exposed. Transport for guests arriving at that time is by 4X4’s. This can be busy during the summer, yet back on the island where some many areas are private then you do have a peaceful haven to retreat to. With the attentive drivers getting you and your luggage to the hotel from the hotel’s parking garage located on the cliff top opposite at Bigbury Bay.
However, it’s the Sea Tractor called ‘Trundle’ that takes top spot with the guests. This current version is the third one. Used almost daily to cross the waves when the tide is in. Collecting the Island guests and ferrying them to and from the art deco hotel. The Burgh Island sea tractor was designed in 1969 by Robert Jackson CBE (a pioneer of the nuclear power station programme in the ’50s). In exchange for his work, he was paid with a case of champagne! Costing around £9,000 to build the first one and the current one is still certainly a Burgh Island celebrity still.
Most guests do like to make the most of black tie dining at the hotel. However their alternative offering is certainly not at all shabby. The Nettlefold Dining room is named after the 1920’s filmmaker Archie Nettlefold who was responsible for building the hotel you see today. Part of the dining room had been modified in the 1930s with the wooden former Captain’s quarters of HMS Ganges being built into its rear wall.
The main Palm Court area is great for a relaxing snack, lunch or those luxury Devon style afternoon cream teas. Evenings alongside it the cocktail bar becomes the main meeting place for pre-dinner drinks, before heading off to dine. Within the hotel choosing either the Grand Ballroom or the Nettlefold. It is also possible to dine at the island’s famous 14th century pub. The Pilchard Inn is in a stunning location overlooking the beach with a cosy wooden beamed interior. After indulging then perhaps you may want to relax and be pampered at the spa found on the ground floor of the hotel.
Rooms come in a number of sizes. A number of suites and smaller rooms all within the main part of the hotel. Also around the grounds there are several alternatives. For instance Agatha’s Beach house is set into the cliff facing the mainland. This modern accommodation offers beach views, sun deck and hot tub. Perhaps the Artist’s Studio which is an open plan room within the grounds and is dog friendly too. Keeping that 1930’s with rooms coming complete with typical art deco styling and decoration. Period furniture of course and I found a nice touch that they did not have was a television!
Walks around the island of which part is an extension to the South West Coast Path. There is a sunken sun terrace to be found next to the Mermaid pool down an outside wooden stairwell. A tennis court outside and croquet too. Or indoors a snooker room to be found near to the spa.
If you have your own transport and don’t need the Sea Tractor you can always fly in as the hotel has a helicopter landing pad!
Certainly time shifting as you prepare to enter the world of 30’s Art Deco and its style. Overall, Burgh Island offers a relaxing stylish getaway which almost makes you feel that you have indeed left the country if only over 400 yards of English Channel surf?
Geoff Moore April 2025
For more information visit www.burghisland.com
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