COMMODORE HOTEL, INSTOW, DEVON
Facing west this hotel has a delightful and expansive river frontage awaiting its guests at The Commodore in North Devon. Rated as three stars but it is better than that.
Located just yards from the fine sandy beach in the maritime village of Instow. Where the rivers Taw and Torridge join nearby and flow then into the Bristol Channel. This three generations family run hotel consisting of 26 rooms. With many of those rooms able to drink in the extensive views of the river’s confluence. Plus also the delightful fishing village of Appledore across the estuary. Where often the sunset views are stunning.
The mostly gentle ebb and flow of the tide make Instow such a perfect family friendly destination. With the fine although not quite white sandy beach is near perfect for those safe beach excursions. At low tide it almost seems possible to walk over to Appledore. However, that is not a good idea as its depth is such that as the tide rises it allows the shipbuilders there to send their newly made vessels down the river! There is a half mile ferry crossing option to save the 7 mile road trip!
This former Georgian gentleman's residence situated so perfectly has been delivering this delightful coastal experience since 1969. Expanded over the years its white and blue elegant exterior has a maritime themed interior that is welcoming and comfy. At one period in its history it was the base for the US Army when they took over the residence in 1943 as part of the UK/USA planning for Day in June 1944.
Another very small invasion was back in 2008 when the pop family ‘The Jacksons’ stayed nearby and ended up filming a TV documentary on the beach in front of the hotel in Instow. Something by pure chance I witnessed back in June of that year.
When there are no pop sensations touring the beach there are still lots to see and do. The Tarka Trail that starts in Braunton some12 miles north and ends at Meeth Halt 19 miles south of Instow. It provides a traffic free walking and cycling trail that runs through the village.
Skirting along the River Torridge on a former railway line is a 3 mile walk to Bideford and its iconic 24 arch bridge. And nearby where you can catch the Lundy Island ferry the ‘Oldenburg’. This National Trust island is only three miles in length. Although it has some 4,000 years of human history plus it's a wildlife habitat that has been compared to that of Galapagos. Stunning natural, rugged beauty, make it a walker’s paradise should you take a day trip or book even longer through the ‘Landmark Trust. Most day visitors travel on German-built MS Oldenburg, an experience in its own right. Sailings are usually around three times a week from either Bideford or Ilfracombe depending on tides. The crossing takes about 2 hours each way. Then allows between 4 and 6 hours to explore the island and check out the wildlife on the land, in the air or around its coast. However, there is an aerial option to take a helicopter. That route is from Hartland Point to Lundy and takes around 7 minutes costing around £170 return per adult child £96.
Back at the Commodore where your attentive staff will see that your room is serviced and that you can enjoy relaxing either in the lounge or your balcony. Then dine with those sunset views over the river and Appledore.
When we stayed recently we selected the dinner and breakfast option where again the service was what one would expect from a hotel graded more than three stars. Dinner options had numerous choices of starters, mains with deserts or cheese selections each course. We were served with really well presented and tasty dishes for each course and at every meal too. The dining room was light, airy and modern with a maritime and coastal feel plus with those wonderful views of the estuary. Within the hotel there are numerous places to sit around, relax and check out the interesting story of the village. Understanding the role it played in the build up to D Day or its boating and fishing history.
Instow village and The Commodore offers a quiet maritime and coastal experience. Where its guests can embrace the fresh sea air. Take in the seaside atmosphere and certainly feel the rejuvenation, and improved wellbeing of having the fine sand between your toes.
Personally and having stayed a number of times over the years I am convinced it has now come for the Commodore to be promoted. That extra gold stripe for the rank of Admiral and for its staff too!
Geoff Moore March 2025
