Marion marvels at crater lakes, bubbling hot springs and thermal pools on
a Fred.Olsen cruise to The Azores and Madeira
I'm told there are as many cows as inhabitants in the Islands of the Azores. The archipelago also boasts the oldest and only remaining tea plantation in Europe and a cluster of active volcanoes.
On this Fred.Olsen 14-night cruise to the Azores and Madeira, our first destination is the mid-Atlantic Ocean autonomous Portuguese region. The islands are a picture book of patchwork pasturelands, dry stone walls, cobbled roads and fishing villages, renowned for their outstanding beauty, unique eco systems and sustainable travel. From May to July the hedgerows come alive as vivid blue hydrangeas jostle for space and burst into bloom.
Ponta del Garda on Sao Miguel island has 240 small volcanoes and 27 active hot springs. We marvel, almost open-mouthed at a dormant volcano's twin, freshwater crater lakes connected by a narrow strait and crossed by a bridge. Legend has it that the green tears of a princess and blue tears of a shepherd boy's ill-fated love are reflected in the colour of the water. Rejuvenated bathing is on tap here via the thermal pools fed by bubbling hot springs and filled with healthy minerals. The family-run Cha Gorreana's verdant tea plantation has spectacular sea views and is just a 30-minute drive from Ponta Del Garda. The city of Angro do Heroismo with its pastel-painted buildings was repaired and rebuilt following 1980 earthquake damage. Associated with the 15th and 16th century discoveries, the island was designated a World Heritage Site in 1983.
To board Fred.Olsen's Borealis, I travel comfortably via Eavesway Travel Cruiselink coach from Blackpool, my nearest pick-up point, to Southampton. Seamless embarkation means in a matter of minutes I'm settling into my Junior Suite with huge bed, deep balcony, sofa, Smart TV, fridge, fruit bowl, bottle of bubbly and loads of storage space.
Fred.Olsen ships are traditional with surprising contemporary touches. It's rumoured that the magnificent artwork/artefact collection on Borealis, which includes the gold-coloured, two-deck high central clock, is insured for more than the ship itself. In the small ship category, this enables Borealis, and others in the fleet, to access to ports not navigable to larger vessels.
The ever-smiling, helpful crew provide a personal touch to rival that of the high-rise 'floatels'. On sea days, at dance classes I try a few tap ball changes, not easy in trainers, show a few salsa moves and rock it up jive-style, with Pete, who whirls me around while wife Margaret, who's awaiting a knee op, reads her book. No need to be bored onboard. A group of 'Terracotta Warriors' keep a watchful eye over the Lego table. There are daily lectures, crafty and /exercise options, choir, quizzes, bars, library, plenty of sunbeds and much more. Entertainment includes nightly theatre shows, a glorious string trio and in the lovely Observatory, tinkling piano music. At the Atlantis Spa my rejuvenating, anti-ageing 'facial leaves my skin radiant and glowing, but, of course, nothing can turn back the clock!
Expect excellent dining in the elegant, glittering Aurora/Borealis two-tier restaurants. The filet mignon with green beans and dauphinoise potatoes is sublime. For a more relaxed option, The View buffet-style restaurant offers a fantastic choice to suit all tastes. At the solos' table I savour the fragrance and flavours at Vasco's Indian speciality restaurant and my favourite, the Colours and Tastes fusion restaurant. Of the 994 passengers onboard, 128 are solo cruisers. Family-founded Fred. Olsen attracts a more mature age group and caters well for solos with dedicated daily meet-ups, a special lunch and visits to the speciality restaurants.
I've been around long enough to know when a male is trying it on. But looking at a profile which reads: 'Mature, single, retired, independent male, relaxed lifestyle with own island home in a sub-tropical setting', I'm intrigued. Then I discover that the description relates to Colombo, a giant tortoise, who's happily solo and content chewing a leaf, where he roams around at his own pace in the Quinta Jardins do Lago, Funchal.
Madeira's official Bird of Paradise flower thrives in the stunning three-acre gardens, where orchid expert Pedro describes their history, culture and care. We also visit the incredible, 43-acre Palheiro Gardens which boasts 5,200 specimens of all colours, some of which were introduced by Captain Cook.
On the quayside in Lisbon my tuk-tuk awaits. University student Francisco settles me into the back seat for a city tour of Portugal's capital. The Calle Rosa de Lisboa known as the Pink Road is a small pedestrian street of pink pavements, terraces and cafe bars with pretty pink parasols. It was formerly a gambling den, with seedy bars and criminal activity. People queue at Bertrand, the oldest book store in the world, of Guinness Book of Records' fame. Fado music nights are popular in Alfama, the oldest part of Lisbon, where older womenfolk sit at tables in doorways selling their home-made Ginginha, a cherry liqueur. Take it steadily with a shot of this one! Liberty Avenue, Lisbon's stylish main street, with its water features, statues and leafy boulevards is designed in the style of the Champs Elysees. The 800-year old cathedral sits close to the city centre. The Pasteis de Belem shop and cafe in the Belem region, produces the traditional custard tarts, made to an original secret recipe devised in a monastery and which dates back to 1837.
From Leixoes, many passengers choose to visit lovely Porto, but this time I take the short walk to the buzzing, golden-sanded beach resort Matosinhos. It's a sunny stroll along the lively promenade to the castle and lookout point where the sea meets the River Douro. I'm glad of the 10,000 step-plus exercise, but happy to see Borealis in the harbour, ready to welcome me home again.
Marion Ainge October 2024
Factfile
https://www.fredolsencruises.com/cruise/azores-and-madeira-S2518
Borealis:13-night Volcanic Vistas of the Azores and Madeira. Departs Dover July 4, 2025. From £1,799pp
www.eaveswaytravel.com
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