Arctic Days, Nights and Northern Lights

HX Expedition’s reimagined coastal ship pairs heritage, wilderness and exciting activities in one unforgettable experience

By Jeannine Williamson

As whiskered Captain Richard With welcomed us aboard and told us the story of his pioneering shipping line, I took a step back in time. The polished wood panelling in the steamship Finnmarken’s first class salon glowed under soft lighting and sepia photos lining the walls told stories of Norway’s maritime heritage. Outside, the Arctic night wrapped the sky in inky darkness.

The reenactor had taken on the role of the visionary founder of the Hurtigruten coastal express, who took the helm of the Vesteraalen as it set out on the first voyage linking remote towns and villages. It seemed fitting that I was listening to the tale in the year HX Expeditions, which grew out of Hurtigruten, marks its 130th anniversary. 

The section of the Finnmarken sits alongside the beautifully preserved later incarnation of the namesake ship. In service from 1956 to 1993, it is now on land inside a striking museum building in Stokmarknes, the birthplace of the Hurtigruten company, where it has been conserved in its entirety. After a cocktail in the lounge and dinner in the dining room, we’re entertained by the stirring sound of a local men’s choir before we wander around the ship, which had its own post office. What makes the evocative experience even more special is that it’s been opened just for us.

It's among many highlights on HX Expeditions’ new seven-night Ultimate Norway – Arctic Expedition under the Northern Lights voyage. This is not a cruise in the traditional sense, but a journey into the soul of Arctic Norway blending culture, history, islands, wildlife, vast seascapes, mystical fjords and – fingers crossed – Mother Nature’s dazzling spectacle of the Northern Lights.

Our journey began in Tromsø, the world’s northernmost city lying 200 miles inside the Arctic Circle and in earlier times a base for hunters, trappers and 19th century explorers. Arriving a day early allows time to visit attractions such as the Polar Museum and landmark triangular Arctic Cathedral. As I’d been before, I went to the quirky Troll Museum, Norway’s first and only gallery dedicated to the fairytale folk said to reside in forests, mountains, fjords and coastal waters and, somewhat alarmingly, associated with storms and shipwrecks by superstitious fishermen.

But we had no qualms boarding HX’s MS Spitsbergen, moored almost opposite. The robust, workmanlike exterior of the ice-strengthened ship gave way to a surprisingly comfortable and contemporary interior, inspired by Norwegian nature (with no trolls in sight), which is the result of a recent and extensive upgrade. After unpacking we headed to the science centre to be kitted out in high-tech expedition gear. While we ended up resembling the Michelin Man, we kept warm and snug throughout the week.

One of our first stops was Tranøya, a secluded, car-free and virtually uninhabited island. HX is the only cruise line to call there, and it felt almost like a secret. We were welcomed by friendly indigenous sheep, direct descendants of those introduced to Tranøya by Vikings, and one of the villagers who shared stories in the wooden church.

Afterwards, we explored the island through a series of outdoor activities. I went snowshoeing, strapping on the gear with the help of the guide and taking my first tentative steps across a pristine blanket of snow. After some ungainly waddling, I got into my stride. Soon the only sounds were the rhythmic crunching beneath my feet as we passed through an ethereal snow-covered forest and paused at the top of a hill to catch our breath. As the sun dipped and sky darkened, we gazed out at the welcoming sight of the twinkling lights on MS Spitsbergen anchored far below.

As we sailed southwest towards the Lofoten Islands, the expedition team sought out the best spots for nature landings. In small groups, at staggered timings, we boarded Rigid Inflatable Boats to be transported to a variety of snow-covered wonderlands. There were always options geared to different fitness levels, and while some passengers hiked inland others simply stayed on the beach, gathering around crackling bonfires to sip warming mugs of soup and marvel at pink-tinged skies against backdrops of jagged mountain peaks.

Each day brought a new adventure, including the chance to come home with a certificate. Arctic kayaking, where we paddled through crystal-clear waters alongside frozen waterfalls, was one. The real test of courage, and possibly a touch of madness, came with the polar plunge. After warming up in the harbourside sauna in Svolvaer I ventured outside and teetered on the edge of the icy steps. Encouraged by fellow passengers I took a deep breath and went in. The teeth-chattering shock was immediate and within a few seconds I was back out, cocooned in a warm towel. But I felt exhilarated and invigorated, and the warming glow lasted for hours. 

That afternoon I joined one of the optional excursions, which was equally thrilling, minus the chill factor. Costing £121, the sea eagle safari was well worth the price for awe-inspiring close-up views of Norway’s largest bird of prey, variously perched on craggy outcrops or swooping into the water to feed. On the way back we had the added bonus of sighting minke whales breaching close to our small boat.

Time ashore was balanced with scenic sailing, most memorably when the nimble MS Spitsbergen squeezed into the narrow Trollfjord. Surrounded by dramatic vertical cliffs, the fjord is inaccessible to larger vessels, and it was yet another special moment. Each day there was never a shortage of things to talk about over an ever-changing feast of meals in the main restaurant and all-new Brygga Bistro. In between, we listened to insightful talks from the guides and joined accessible hands-on citizen science sessions.

While keeping us in suspense for several days, the Northern Lights finally put on a show, with breathtaking repeat performances on the ensuing nights. Standing on deck with the sky painted in shades of emerald and indigo, as MS Spitsbergen glided through still waters, was magical. This is the kind of journey that stays with you forever, not just in photographs, but in memories and feelings.

FACT FILE

HX Expeditions offers a variety of all-inclusive seven- to 13-night Norway expeditions on MS Spitsbergen. The week-long Ultimate Norway – Arctic Expedition under the Northern Lights itinerary, sailing round-trip from Tromsø, costs from £3,395 per person, including daily excursions and activities, meals, drinks, Wi-Fi and tips.

All guests receive a polar expedition jacket and digital album and video of the voyage by the ship’s photographer.

Visit travelhx.com or call +44 203 993 4353

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