Vienna Christmas Markets
Probably one of the most photogenic of the Christmas market destinations in Europe. Vienna certainly is not backward in marketing its markets at this festive time of the year. It appears that there is almost a market around each corner! From the larger ones around its capital’s palaces or the town hall or the Rathhaus they always lay on a memorable festive experience.
This year a giant tree festooned with red hearts and a giant heart flying on an aerial wire to ignite the glowing arboreal display in the dark. From ‘Vienna with Love’. The larger markets are at the Schonbrunn Palace and the Rathhausplatz for sure. But you will come across them at many places around the city. From a few stalls clustered around a tiny church precinct or the really big palace players too.
St Stephen’s Cathedral in the city centre is always popular. It’s base gathers in traders selling warming drinks and their many bulging stalls of decorations, baubles and gifts. The atmosphere around the city is a happy relaxed affair. Even though on some days the crowds can be exceptional. Certainly the weekends are busier than the weekdays and my choice would be the latter if you want to hit those markets in more comfort.
With no sprinkling of snow this year for my visit, getting around was easy. Although the Austrians deal with such hazards in their stride of course. It is certainly possible to make the most of any visit to the city at this festive time even if for just a few days. What makes this so easy is its highly efficient transport system. It's possible if you wanted to visit around six markets all in one day. The underground (UBahn), trams and buses are so coordinated and their daily, three day or week long tickets are the most economical and convenient transport solution for any visitor.
Some of the markets have different themes running through them. The market at Karlsplatz in front of Karlskirche had a rural, craft and handmade quirky feel to it. Children could frolic in the mountain of straw covering a fountain area. Building makeshift houses or dens in the golden stalks. With some sheep and goats in a nearby pen to give it that manger feel. A pedal yourself roundabout provided some fun as the adults cycled the hand made rides round and round with both parents and kids having a great time! Crafts of all types are on sale, pottery in particular seems to be popular, plus adornments for the trees of course. Baubles and decorations in all shapes and sizes and masses of them too. Warming cups of punsch and gluhwein are an established favourite of any Christmas market. Throw in a hot dog or two, baked potatoes, Langos, a fried bread dish from Hungary. That is the catering sorted for a while anyway?
The mugs that contain the drinks are a feature, as each market has their own design. My particular choice this year were the ones at Am Hof. Their contemporary shape and styling choice with a sledging Santa caught my eye. The boot shaped mug has perhaps run its course although, The Belvedere Palace had one this year as did St Stephens. Empress ‘Sissy’ former mug at the Schonbrunn Palace was a little boring, I thought? I know that many visitors collect one from each one they visit. This year they cost around €5 each if you do not return it to the stall holder and collect your deposit from them.
Food choices are numerous. Gingerbread of course, chocolates, hot dogs and chestnuts or Maroni, in German, are always popular. Plastic products are generally rare, wood, straw, glass, metal, clay, and fabric with enough food and drink to satisfy the thousands of visitors that come to the city each festive season from all over Europe and further. A cluster of wooden cabins sell a wide range of gift items, including, sculpted candles, handcrafted decorations, wooden nativity scenes, jewellery, tableware and gourmet items and cheeses.
Vienna and its Advent period the central Rathausplatz is the largest with Schonbrunn a close second. Although, the very convenient coach park next to the palace makes it pretty busy with much transport arriving there from the rest of mainland Europe. My route around the city on one day took in first the Schonbrunn, then Art Advent, Karlsplatz, onto St Stephens, then Am Hof, Altweiner and finally ending the evening at the Rathaus. Not to mention that I could have also taken in the Maria Theresien Platz market too. Which is in the Museums Quarter between the Art History and Natural History Museums. Quite honestly all very achievable using the odd UBahn, tram and walking. Which is always not a bad thing if you partake in the odd gluhwein, hot dog or the cheese sausage, the kasekrainer which is my favourite!
This is also a time to try or buy many other specialty foods as there are usually plenty of choices for sale. Plus, it’s the artisans who come to sell their hand made products of jewellery, carved wood, and a truly staggering amount of colourful tree decorations too. There is certainly more than a trend to ensure the quality of goods sold at the Vienna Christmas markets. With an arts and craft jury checking and giving approval for items to be sold!
Vienna does deliver a classic Christmas market. Also in the way that one would expect of such a stylish city!
Geoff Moore
