Monet, Michelin and ‘Moments’ to savour
From Van Gogh’s village to Michelin-starred dining, Jeannine Williamson discovers a cruise aboard Viva Beyond offers a relaxed journey through French art, culture and cuisine.
The strains of Our House by Madness drift across the cookers and work surfaces as chefs clear away the final plates and glasses. It’s not the soundtrack you might expect at the end of an evening in a Michelin-starred restaurant, but then very little about dinner at Manoir de Rétival fits the stereotype.
There are no hushed dining rooms, intimidating maître d’s or stuffy formalities. Instead, I’m sitting in the heart of the kitchen itself, chatting with chef David Goerne while watching his team at work just a few feet away. It feels more like being invited to a private dinner party than dining at one of Normandy’s most celebrated restaurants. It’s relaxed, lively and enormous fun.
David not only cooks but personally serves each course, explaining the ingredients, inspirations and accompanying wines. One moment he’s discussing the season's first cucumbers, the next he’s plating delicate creations while chatting with guests as though hosting friends at home.
The exquisite eight-course experience is a standout perk for guests staying in the 10 Beyond Suites aboard Viva Beyond, the first ship in Viva Cruises’ new premium brand, Viva Boutique. It’s also a perfect example of how the line is attempting to turn traditional river cruise luxury on its head.
My voyage along the Seine is themed around art, one of three specialist itineraries offered by Viva Boutique alongside culinary and cultural sailings. The week combines the comfort of river cruising with immersive experiences ashore, creating an enriching journey for all the senses.
One of our first stops on the round-trip Paris sailing is Auvers-sur-Oise, where I find myself standing inside the Absinthe Museum preparing to sample the notorious drink absinthe.
Known as ‘the green fairy’, it has long been associated with bohemian culture. During the 19th century it became so fashionable that late afternoon drinking sessions earned the nickname ‘the green hour’. Writers, poets and painters would gather in cafes to enjoy a glass before dinner, helping cement the drink’s reputation as the tipple of creative minds.
Its emerald colour and infamous reputation had led me to expect something harsh and bitter. Instead, it’s surprisingly smooth. While myths linking absinthe with hallucinations persist, our guide explains it originally began life as a medicinal tonic.
Either way, it sets the scene for an afternoon dedicated to Vincent Van Gogh who moved to the village in 1890 but only lived there for 70 days before his untimely death at just 37. Nevertheless, he painted prolifically, producing around one painting and drawing a day of the local church, cottages and wheat fields.
The most poignant moment comes at Auberge Ravoux, and seeing the stark, tiny attic room where he died is a moving experience. Despite creating more than 2,000 works during his lifetime, he sold only one painting while alive.
The artistic theme continues during a visit to Monet’s famous garden at Giverny. Flower beds overflow with blooms in every imaginable shade while the iconic Japanese bridge arches gracefully over the lily pond that inspired Monet’s celebrated Water Lilies series. As frogs croak enthusiastically from the banks and small islands, nature provides its own soundtrack to one of France’s most beautiful gardens.
Back on board Viva Beyond, the emphasis on creativity extends into the ship itself. Following a major refurbishment, the 112-passenger vessel feels more boutique hotel than traditional river ship. Soft pastel colours, elegant furnishings and contemporary artwork create an atmosphere that’s stylish without feeling overly formal.
The accommodation reflects the premium concept. Half the cabins are suites, unusually generous for a river vessel. My Beyond Suite comes complete with a dressing room, complimentary minibar, in-room breakfast service and a few thoughtful surprises delivered during the voyage. These touches help create a genuine sense of occasion.
Food naturally plays a central role throughout the cruise. Alongside the main restaurant and casual French brasserie, all guests dine at least once in Moments, the intimate speciality restaurant where David Goerne’s menu showcases some of his signature dishes. French flavours feature strongly throughout the ship, while themed culinary events celebrate local produce. One evening brings oysters, steak tartare and Champagne before dinner; another features delicate French pastries served during afternoon tea.
I also appreciate the balance between organised experiences and independent exploration.
Unlike many river cruise lines that bundle multiple excursions into the fare, Viva includes one guided tour for everyone and allows guests to choose whether to book additional outings. There’s no feeling of paying for trips you don’t want or guilt about skipping organised tours.
That flexibility allows me to wander independently through Rouen, admiring medieval half-timbered houses and the cathedral that Monet painted more than 30 times under different light conditions. In Le Havre, rebuilt after the Second World War and now recognised by UNESCO, I discover a very different side of French heritage through striking modern architecture.
Back in Paris, another highlight sees me squeezing into the back of a classic Citroën 2CV on one of the optional tours. As the little car bounces cheerfully through the streets, we pass landmarks including the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre and the Champs-Élysées. The journey itself is every bit as entertaining as the sights.
By the time the cruise returns to Paris, I’ve enjoyed a fascinating mix of art, history, culture and gastronomy, all delivered at a relaxed pace that allows destinations to be savoured rather than rushed.
In a crowded river cruise market, Viva is serving up something genuinely new – and it’s a very appetising recipe indeed.
Jeannine Williamson August 2026 pic credits Viva Cruises and Jeannine Williamson
Fact file
Viva Boutique offers three cruises themed on art, food and culture, on the Seine, with fares starting at £1,975, including all onboard meals, drinks, one excursion, tips and Wi-Fi.
In 2027 it will launch its second premium ship, Viva Unique, on Italy’s Po River.
Visit viva-cruises.com or call 0330 818 7271
Please mention Your Holiday and Cruise Magazine